How to choose your surfboard

1. Understanding the different types of surfboards

The longboard (9 feet and up)

The longboard is the ideal board for beginners. Its large size and significant volume provide maximum buoyancy, which makes paddling and catching waves easier. Stable and forgiving, it overlooks errors in positioning and allows you to catch a large number of waves, even the mushiest ones.

The longboard is also suitable for experienced surfers who appreciate a fluid and elegant surfing style, inspired by the Hawaiian origins of surfing.

For whom? Beginners, surfers with a classic style, small waves.

The funboard or malibu (7 to 9 feet)

Between the longboard and the shortboard, the funboard is the transition board. It offers a good compromise between stability and maneuverability. Less bulky than a longboard, it allows you to start working on turns and basic maneuvers.

For whom? Advanced beginners, intermediate surfers, moderate-sized waves.

The shortboard (5'8" to 7 feet)

This is the board for experienced surfers. Thin, light, and responsive, it allows for technical maneuvers: top turns, cutbacks, tubes, aerials. In return, it requires a solid technical level, good physical condition, and precise wave reading. On a shortboard, catching a wave requires more powerful paddling and perfect timing.

For whom? Intermediate to advanced surfers, quality waves.

The fish (5'2" to 6'4")

The fish is recognized by its swallow tail. Short and wide, it offers plenty of volume for its size and excels in small, mushy waves where a classic shortboard would struggle. It is lively, fast, and very fun to surf.

For whom? Intermediate to advanced surfers, small waves, fun sessions.

The gun (7 to 10 feet)

The gun is designed for big waves, over 2 meters. Long, narrow, and pointed, it allows you to gain speed in extreme conditions and engage in impressive drops. It is clearly not a daily board.

For whom? Expert surfers, big waves, challenging spots.

The mini-malibu (7 to 8 feet)

Close to the funboard, the mini-malibu is often recommended as the first personal board after surf school boards. It combines good volume, a manageable length, and enough maneuverability to progress calmly.

For whom? Independent beginners, occasional surfers.

---

2. Essential criteria for choosing your board

Length

Length determines stability and paddling speed. Generally speaking, the more of a beginner you are, the longer the board should be. A good starting formula: your height + 1 to 2 feet if you are a beginner. An experienced surfer can choose a board of their height or slightly shorter.

Volume (in liters)

This is the most important criterion today. The volume determines the buoyancy of the board, i.e., its ability to keep you on the surface and catch waves. It is measured in liters and depends on three dimensions: length, width, and thickness.

A commonly used formula: your weight in kg × 0.5 to 0.6 = minimum volume in liters for a beginner. A 75 kg surfer will ideally start with a 40 to 50-liter board. As your skill level progresses, the volume decreases.

Width

A wide board (more than 20 inches) is more stable, ideal for beginners. A narrow board is more responsive and maneuverable, but requires more balance.

Thickness

Thickness directly influences volume. A thick board floats better and paddles more easily. Shortboards are often thin (2.5 to 3 inches) while longboards and funboards are thicker (3 to 3.5 inches).

Rocker

Rocker refers to the curvature of the board seen in profile. A pronounced rocker makes the board more maneuverable in hollow waves but slows down paddling. A flat rocker speeds up glide and makes it easier to take off on small waves. For beginners, a moderate or flat rocker is preferable.

Tail shape

The board's tail influences behavior during turns:

• Squash tail: versatile, grips well in turns, adapted to most conditions.
• Round tail: fluid, ideal for big waves and classic style.
• Swallow tail: dynamic, perfect for small waves (fish).
• Pin tail: precise and controlled in big, fast waves (gun).

Number of fins

• Single fin: stability, classic feel, ideal on longboards.
• Twin fin: speed and freedom, gliding sensation.
• Thruster (3 fins): the most common configuration, good balance between control and dynamism.
• Quad (4 fins): speed and drive, excellent in hollow or powerful waves.

---

3. Adapting your board to surf conditions

The choice of board also depends on the waves you usually surf.

Small mushy waves (beach breaks, waves under 1 m): favor a longboard, fish, or funboard with plenty of volume to slide easily on low-power waves.

Medium-sized waves (1 to 1.5 m): the funboard, mini-malibu, or a high-volume shortboard will work well. This is the ideal condition for progress.

Good hollow and powerful waves (1.5 to 2 m): the performance shortboard makes sense. The board must be precise and responsive to follow the wall of the wave.

Big waves (over 2 m): the gun is a must. Safety comes before everything else.

---

4. Choosing between a new board and a used board

The new board

Buying a new board guarantees perfect condition, without impact or delamination. You can also order it custom-made (personalized shape) from a local shaper, which is an excellent option if you have specific criteria or are at an advanced level. The main disadvantage is the price, which can quickly exceed €500 to €800 for a quality board.

The used board

For beginners, used is often the best option. You will find good quality boards at very affordable prices (€80 to €250). Inspect it carefully: check for the absence of delamination (areas where the fiberglass peels off), internal cracks, unrepaired breaks, or damage at the fin boxes. A small repaired ding is perfectly acceptable.

---

5. Material: foam or fiberglass?

Foam boards (softboard)

Softboards are covered with a soft, lightweight foam. Less dangerous in case of impact, they are perfect for surf lessons and first sessions. Inexpensive, they are solid and less easily damaged. However, their performance is limited: they are not suitable for progression beyond the beginner level.

Fiberglass boards (PU or EPS)

The vast majority of surfboards are built around a foam core (polyurethane PU or polystyrene EPS), covered with fiberglass and epoxy or polyester resin.

• PU/polyester boards are heavier but offer a natural flex appreciated by experienced surfers.
• EPS/epoxy boards are lighter, stronger, and float more. Ideal for beginners and surfers looking for more volume.

---

6. Your budget: how much to expect?

Don't forget to budget for essential accessories: leash (€20 to €50), wax (€3 to €8), travel bag (€30 to €100), and potentially a wetsuit if you surf in cold water (€150 to €400).

---

7. Common mistakes to avoid

Choosing a board that is too small too soon. This is the number one mistake for beginners who want to imitate the pros. A shortboard without sufficient technical level is a guarantee of not catching waves, progressing slowly, and becoming discouraged.

Not taking volume into account. Length alone is not enough. Two boards of the same length can have very different volumes depending on their width and thickness.

Buying a board unsuited to local waves. A board designed for the large waves of the Landes will be of little use if you exclusively surf 60 cm Mediterranean beach breaks.

Neglecting the condition of a used board. A board with unrepaired dings takes on water, becomes heavier, and degrades quickly.

Listening only to others. The ideal board for your friend is not necessarily the ideal one for you. Weight, body type, skill level, and spots differ from one surfer to another.

---

8. Pros' tips for a good start

Experienced surfers and instructors agree on a few essential points:

Always start with more volume than necessary. It is easier to progress on a stable board than to struggle constantly with a board that is too small. You can always reduce the volume later.

Rent before you buy. If you are a beginner, start by renting different types of boards during your first sessions to identify what suits you. Most surf schools and surf shops offer daily or weekly rentals.

Consult a shaper or an instructor. These professionals know the local spots, usual wave conditions, and can guide you to the board best suited to your profile.

Join the local community. The surfers at your spot know better than anyone which boards work in their conditions. Do not hesitate to ask for advice and feedback based on their experience.

---

Conclusion: the perfect board exists for every surfer

There is no such thing as a universal board. The ideal board is the one that matches your skill level, your body type, your usual spots, and your budget. Take the time to carefully analyze these criteria before you get started.

If you are a beginner: opt for a large foamie or an EPS longboard with plenty of volume. If you are progressing: gradually move to a funboard or a fish, depending on the conditions. If you are an experienced surfer: explore performance shortboards or custom-made boards.

Surfing is a lifelong journey. Each board you choose will mark a stage in your progress. Carefully consider every choice, and above all: have fun in the water.